There was no real palace by the Pasig River – until 1977. Malacanang – the seat of Philippine sovereignty since 1863 – was an architectural monstrosity: Thrice destroyed by earthquakes, twice hit by fires, twice damaged by cyclonic winds, and for a long time dreaded for its hordes of big rats swarming in cavernous holes beneath the mansion ground.
From a 17th century stone house nucleus, Malacanang was expanded, rebuilt or renovated willy-nilly and in their own time by 32 Spanish governors-general, 13 American military or civilian governors, and 9 Philippine presidents.
Out of necessity or whims of the long chain of Malacanang occupants, what became known as the “the Palace” underwent architecture transformations until the edifices were encrusted with oriental, Spanish, American and Filipino influences.
And in a period of 123 years from 1863 up to the fall of the Marcos government on February 25, 1986, Malacanang metamorphosed into a palace without any trace of the original “bahay na bato” (stone house) used by the Spanish governors as summer rest house in colonial times.
Malacanang changed bit by bit whenever whoever was occupying it felt a need for a new azotea , another gallery, a new wing added to the left if to the right of the old mansion, an additional guardhouse, a repositioning of the dining room, or the transfer of the main staircase.
Originally built as a Spanish colonial style residence by a grandee, Don Luis Rocha, in 1802, Malacanang was transformed into a “palace” not by one but several architects from colonial, American and contemporary periods of varying architectural influences into what can be called as “eclectic artwork”.
How did Malacanang become the official residence of presidents of the Philippines?
In the early 1800’s, San Miguel district in Manila as an idyllic suburb along the north bank of the Pasig River, where wealthy Manilans had their summer houses.
In 1802, when the Spaniards were in panic over the possibility of a second British invasion of Manila, the owner of one such country estate sold it to an army colonel, Don Jose Miguel Formento, on November 11, 1802 for Php 1,100.00.
In 1825 the executors of Formento’s will sold the mansion to the Spanish government in Manila for Php 5,100.00 to fund the purchase, the Chinese community was taxed Php 6.00 per head.
At this time, Malacanang was in the countryside, away from the stifling summer heat of Intramuros. Thus, to escape the heat or enjoy the countryside air, Spanish VIP’s, including the governor-general, made Malacanang their rest house.
Malacanang became the official residence of the Spanish governors after the earthquake of 1863, which destroyed the Palacio Real in Intramuros.
Over the next 35 years, Malacanang itself went through three (3) earthquakes, two fires and a disastrous typhoon, while 19 Spanish governors came and went. Before 1863, 13 other Spanish governors-general made Malacanang their summer residence.
The Spanish government made the residence worthy of the sovereign who lived there.
In less than 30 years, the Spanish government plunked in Php 1,285,600.00 for improvement and repair. During this period a two-story building was constructed at the back of the old mansion with provision for bath, dressing and relaxation for the governor-general’s wife.
Another two story building went up for the Palace guards. And later a new wing was added to the right side of the riverside façade, a new azotea joined to the original one, a gallery built facing the entrance and another wing added to the left of the main building, the principal staircase transferred at the center, staircase galleries set up, another azotea built and the dining room moved to the middle portion of the building.
After 1898, the American governors had a better time of it. The old mansion was reconstructed and an adjoining 17,602 square meter property was bought at Php 176, 020.00.
The old grounds were raised and landscaped, entranced to the main floor was remodeled, stairway and dining room remodeled, a modern tennis court constructed, new plumbing and electrical system were installed, new river walls built, and a new balcony was constructed.
The executive building was erected just east of the old palace. The executive building house from the office of the governor-general and vice governor in the first floor and the second floor served as the quarters for official guests.
Extensive improvements were carried out under the American governor Dwight Davis between 1929 and 1932, and also under President Quezon, the first Filipino president to occupy Malacanang. An executive wing was added in 1929 where General Douglas Macarthur had an office during the Commonwealth period.
The expansion and the improvements continued under president Quezon, who built the executive building in 1939 and extended the palace grounds over Pasig River to cover what is now Malacanang Park.
Completed in April, 1979, has new palace has more classic proportions. The ground floor has been raised considerably to minimize flooding from the Pasig during heavy rains. The interiors are a showcase of Philippine hardwoods and Filipino craftsmanship in wood carving.
The heirloom crystal chandeliers of the reception hall are now complemented by massive carved wood chandeliers created by Filipino craftsmen; in the large ceremonial hall higher ceilings enhance the airy, garden room atmosphere of the heroes’ hall on the ground floor.
The official residence of the highest Philippine officials has not always been called Malacanang. Malacanang was the name of the street that ran parallel to the Pasig River. There are two versions how the palace became known as the Malacanang.
One version says that the name was actually the hispanized phrase “may lakan diyan” (a nobleman lives there) or “malakan diyan” (there are many nobles there).
The late President Magsaysay literally gave Malacanang to the people to a point where he was criticized for turning Malacanang into a “miniature Divisoria”.
Lately President Corazon Aquino threw open the gates of Malacanang to the people after 20 years of restricted admission of the public during the times of Former President Marcos.
Malacanang stands for several meanings, during the times of Rizal, Malacanang was on object of resentment. He referred to it as “the property of encomenderos and rich merchants”.
It is a perpetual reminder to Manilans that once nobility lived in the palace. For many Filipinos of the passing generation, Malacanang has been a symbol of alien power because for so long it was the seat of colonial power.
For more than a century, Malacanang has symbolized the ultimate in Philippine pomp and glitter. The list of notables who graced Malacanang is long and impressive.
Prince Oscar of Sweden was first loyal guest in 1923. Malacanang received Edward, Prince of Wales, who came to Manila to play polo. In February, 1937, Denis Cardinal Dougherty slept in Malacanang.
Indonesia’s former President Sukarno, his wife and children stayed in Malacanang for a week’s official visit. Sukarno became the first chief-of-state house guest.
Victoria Quirino, daughter of the late Elpidio Quirino, who was then the first lady of the land since President Quirino was a widower, was married in the Palace. It was the first wedding of its kind in Malacanang.
But Malacanang has not always been pomp and glitter. There was a time when Malacanang was avoided by Manila’s high society because the palace had been notorious for the large rats that resided there.
The big rats kept on residing in the Palace with whoever were the incumbent “senor” governor-general and his family.
One time, during a great flooding from the Pasig River, hordes of rats came out from their hiding places - like cavernous holes underneath the palace grounds – to escape drowning.
Malacanang will continue changing – as it continues changing its tenants – but its legacy will endure.
To quote a Filipino historian: “Malacanang is a veritable treasure chest where diamonds of history sparkle with memories of gold to enhance them”.
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